Wizard of OZ
Wizard of OZ
Our brief was to apply, analysis, and take on a production role in the show wizard of OZ and follow document the process throughout setting smart goals and bettering the production.
Based on the original Novel The wizard of Oz adapted into a playful pantomime. Dorothy and her dog Toto find themselves in the strange land of Oz after a cyclone hits her Aunt and Uncle's house in Kansas. To return home, Dorothy must follow the yellow brick road to find the famous Wizard of Oz who lives in the beautiful Emerald City.
My role in the production is Costume maker. A Costume Maker creates the costumes based on the designs and drawings created by the Costume Designer and works under their direction.
Within this project I will be creating costumes for multipul characters to be used in the show. This will include measuring, sewing, and finalising costumes to be used on stage to communicate a character.
During the show I will also be a dresser which includes doing all the quick changes during the show for multiple characters.
Pattern and Cutting
Pattern and Cutting
The Character I to to make the costume for was Ms Gulch and old lady who is seen as a villain for threatening Dorothy. The first thing I did was research certain aspects of the costume as they were all period pieces. I researched the 1890’s cycle jacket with matching cycle trousers. The whole outfit is called a bloomer suit, an outfit for use with bicycles was created in the 1890s as special clothing for women to wear while riding a bicycle.
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I then moved onto the Pattern. Since my measurements had already been taken I could start straight away. Since I was given my design till later in the week all I could do was work out my pattern. Since it was a paper pattern I had to assemble it and then cut out the pattern. I also had to cut 1.5 cm off the edge of the pattern as the seam allowance was included.
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Once I had my pattern measured and cut to size I next had to cut the fabric. For the most part of the jacket I cut three layers these included the outer fabric, the backing, and the lining. The outer fabric is the fabric everyone will see in this case the tartan. The back is a layer in between the outer and lining which gives the garment structure. And finally the lining which goes on the inside of the jacket and lines it.
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Sewing Conscrution
Sewing Conscrution
I started by sewing all the outer fabric pieces to its allotted backing piece. As the backing is used for structure it is sewed down to another piece unlike the lining which is a whole separate layer. Once all the backing was sewed down I could actually start piecing together the jacket giving it shape and making it wearable. Somthing that really helped me was stitching my chalked lines so I could see where I needed to sew.
After each seam I made sure to iron the stitches and press the seams open to slow for the best shape from the outside. Once the main body was sewn together I moved to the sleeves which required army box plets which I had to learn how to do.
Fittings
Fittings
Once most of the stitching had been done we had fittings with the actor playing Ms Gultch Avital Kagan. A fitting is where the actor tries on the costume so the maker can adjust it to there measurements and check everything fits. Overall it went well. Avital first tried on the cycle trousers which I pinned to her waist measurement so it fit her properly.
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Avital then tried on the jacket which needed a few adjustments due to it being rather long. I first Pinned the waist higher so the jacket layer in the right place. The I pinned the hem so you could see the bottom of the trousers and the cuff so it hit her wrist. After all this was pinned I could then finish the costume. During other fittings I made notes to refer to later for the other makers.
Final Costume
Final Costume
After the fittings were finished I could finish off the costume. Firstly I worked on the trousers which needed the waist taken in, a zipper added, waistband added, and cuffs finished. Taking in the waist was easy as I had pinned the amount needed to be taken in I distributed it through two of the darts to make this the correct size.I then added the zipper which was a little more complicate. I folded the guide that I had printed and added the zip to a seam so hidden. Once the zip was in place I added the waist band. This was 4cm thicknes with a popper and a hook and bar clasp to keep the trousers tightly closed when the actor wears them on stage. These three fastenings also allowed for a more comfortable fit.
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I then firstly finished off my trousers by adding button holes and buttons to the cuffs. This allowed the trousers to have a puffy look when fastened. I then moved onto the jacket which needed to be adjusted and finished. From the fitting the waist of the jacket had to be taken up before the lining could be added. I firstly took up the waist which could be done through the seam which attached the skirt to the main jacket. Then I attached the lining sewing around the edges so when flipped the correct way the seams could not be seen. Once these tasks were done the jacket could be packaged for the old rep where it can be finished.
At the Old Rep
At the Old Rep
When I got to the Old Rep I had a routine I'd do every show. this garated a smooth process for everyone involved.
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Firstly I do some checks around the theatre making sure quick changes is set up and all the costumes were taken up from the previous show. These are important to do as if there is anything missing we need time to find it or find a replacement. Finally once everything is ready for the show if I have a bit of time I will have a look if any maintenance needs to be done on any of the costumes.
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After the show starts we work our way down the quick change list as the show goes on. The first is in act 1 scene 1 where Denise just changes her aunty em shoes to her Glinda shoes to make the next quick change easier. She doesn’t need assistance on this change but we do pre-set her Glinda’s shoes and move aunty em’s boots out the way after the change.
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Straight after this change we pre-set Glinda’s costume. Wardrobe 1 lays out her skirt so she can just step into in, while wardrobe 2 gets her corset ready by holding it so she can slip her head through. At the end of scene 1 she runs off stage, wardrobe 1 unties her apron and moves her aunty em costume out the way, Denise the steps into the skirt and wardrobe 1 pops it in while wardrobe 2 slips the corset over her head and ties it in the back. Makeup then puts her wig on and wardrobe gives her her wand ready to go.
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​Once the Tin mans change is done we hang up Aunty em’s costume for her change at the end of the show. Once this is done we are free for the rest of the first act. Once we get to the interval we pick up some work again. First once tin mans comes off stage we remove his upper leg pads so Orion can sit down during the interval.
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Then we join hair and make up in the ensemble girls dressing room to help them get into their Ozian costumes. As they are all different some need their straps pined in place to hide their undershirts, others need help zipping dresses up, and jewellery done up. We also helped with wigs and pinning hair if hair and make up needed help. Once the Ozians are stage ready we run back down to the running room and help Orian back into his Tin Man leg pads ready for act 2.
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The halfway through act 2 in scene 3 three emsable actors (Alfie, Jay, and Holly) get into ghost costumes for the next scene. When there are 2 wardrobe assistants, one helps Alfie and Jay and the other helps Holly. For Alfie we help him in the running room. We put his hat on and help him put on his ghost costume over his head and spread it out evenly. Then he heads on stage.
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Then Holly’s change is done on stage left in the wing. Since Holly has together changed upstairs before her Gohst she comes down halfway through the scene and we help her by putting the gohst costume over her head and spreading it out. Similar to Holly, Jay also comes down halfway through the scene and we help him in the running room. Finally after the scene we we collect the costumes stage right and hangs them back on the rail.
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After the Gohsts we have a little break before act 2 scene 7 where we have the two quickest changes in the show. Glinda and the Wizard have to change back into uncle Henry and aunty Em while they only have a scene change. We have one wardrobe assist on each charter plus a hair assist helping with Glinda. For Glinda we undo her corset and help it.
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over her head. Then we undo her skirt while she steps out and into her aunty Em’s skirt. Finally hair removes her the Glinda wig and puts on aunty Em’s wig while we tie her apron and gives her a vase of flowers. With the wizard we take off his cape and pyjama top. Then he puts on his shirt while stepping into his dungarees which wardobe pulls up and fastens. Once they are on stage we immediately pre-set for their next change as scene 8 is a very small scene.
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Finally after scene 8 Mathew and Denise run back off as uncle Henry and aunty Em for there change back into Wizard and Glinda. For the Wizard’s change we unbuckle his dungarees so he can slide them off and take off his shirt. He has already got his pj bottoms on from his last change so just has to put on his pj shirt and his robe before heading to the wings for bows.
